When Christian pilgrims visit the Holy Land, there are many biblical places to be seen. Some are known because of tradition, some because of archeological evidence, and some because visitors want the possibility of an experience. The baptism sites offer an opportunity for renewal of baptismal vows or for first-time candidates to affirm their faith in the Jordan River of biblical distinction.
Baptism in the Christian Tradition
The Gospel accounts report John the Baptist preaching in the wilderness, calling for the repentance of sins, and baptizing with water. When Jesus comes to him, John carries out his request for baptism. The gospel writers use slightly different wording to describe the scene. Mark’s gospel, which scholars believe was the first one written, begins with the story of John and the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan River. (Mark 1: 1-11)
Matthew in Chapter 3 follows Mark’s account detailing John’s preaching, his garb, and his foreshadowing of the One who is to come. When Jesus arrives, John reluctantly consents to baptize him and when Jesus comes up from the water, a dove descends as the Spirit of God and a voice says, “This is my beloved Son, with whom I am well pleased.”
Chapter 3 in Luke also contains the baptism account, similar to the one Mark and Matthew describe. And in John’s gospel, the first chapter relates the baptism from that writer’s point of view.
Baptism was claimed as a mark of entry into the Christian community beginning with the early missionaries, including Paul. As the Church organized, baptism was administered to new believers and then spread to the practice of infant baptism.
Paul’s statement in Ephesians 4 regarding “one Lord, one faith, one baptism” led most churches to the understanding that once a person is baptized, that is good for all time.
Baptism Renewal
Because baptism is understood as a once and for all event, many Christian denominations developed liturgy for baptism renewal or remembrance services. This allowed those who were baptized as infants to proclaim their own faith at an older age or for those who had a renewing experience in life to mark that change with remembering their baptism vows.
For many pilgrims who visit the Holy Land, standing on the banks of the Jordan River where the gospels say Jesus was baptized, there is a desire to reflect and remember their own baptism event. On the six journeys I have made to Israel, each time the group I have accompanied has shared in this special way.
Options for Baptism Sites Along the Jordan
The Jordan River runs from Syria in the north to the Dead Sea in the south, forming much of the eastern border of Israel with its neighbor Jordan. Today, the flowing river is utilized for irrigation and so in many places, it is little more than a narrow stream.
Near the outlet from the Sea of Galilee, wholly within the nation of Israel is the baptism site visited by most tour groups. This area, operated by a kibbutz, contains changing rooms for those desiring to don rental gowns, features a walkway into the river with handrails, viewing decks, and a large gift shop and restaurant. The parking lot is usually filled with buses and the tourist numbers are high. Known as “Yardinet” or “little Jordan,” it is a well-visited place recalling the events of Jesus’ baptism.
Water from the Jordan River is used for irrigation in both Israel and Jordan so the amount of water in the river varies with the season and the rainfall quantity. Along much of the southern reaches of the river as it travels toward the Dead Sea, the Jordan is not accessible from the roadway. However, Israel has recently developed a new tourist facility near Jericho in a more traditional setting closer to the area where Jesus more than likely experienced baptism. Qasr al-Yahud is accessed through an Israeli military reservation in a previously restricted area. Driving to the site entails passing barbed wire fencing, bullet-riddled buildings, watchtowers, and mine fields.
Reaching the Jordan River, Qasr al-Yahud, Arabic for "Jewish castle," contains modern restrooms, a convenience store and attractive landscaping. Israeli soldiers are on duty and across the narrow stream is the country of Jordan, where another baptism site is found. This facility is older, contains an imposing church structure, and has river access. Jordanian soldiers are observed standing guard.
Looking at the muddy water, filled with reeds and wildlife, one can picture the crowds coming out to see John the Baptist and hear his cry of “Repent.” The nearby wilderness around Jericho could well be the area where Jesus spent his forty days of solitude following his own baptism.
As with all biblical places in Israel, the pilgrim needs to remember to celebrate the event, not the place. An opportunity for the sacrament of baptism or renewal of one’s vows with Jordan River water is a special part of a visit to the Land of the Bible.
Ethel Brodie - Intrigued by the world, encouraged to write my observations, published in newspapers and magazines, and sharing special places.
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